Hitting the seas, airways and road again...

I have been writing my own version of "On the Road Again" but I doubt to achieve the success and notoriety Willie Nelson did.

Anyway, as Sayer mentioned in the previous entry, he and I parted ways in Greece and I headed to Venice, Italy.  The purpose of my trip was to gain some inspiration for my graduate studies in architecture. I certainly saw the brilliance and splendour that continues to captivate tourist worldwide. But let me back track and let you in on my journey to this "City of Bridges."

View from the F/B Ariadne on the Adriatic Sea

I took a ferry that left Corfu bright and early the morning of December 4th. The journey was leisurely and a first for me. I had the small cabin all to myself but it had all the essentials. After a 25 hour wave ride through the Adriatic, the ferry docked and I disembarked onto the Port of Venice.  I was shocked by the cold and wet weather. I had been told to expect bad weather and that rain boots might be a good investment because Saint Mark's Square was flooded and under a lot of water.  Determined not to let the bad weather dampen my spirits, I strapped on my backpack and made my way to my hostel which was supposed to be two minutes from the Rialto Bridge.

The famous Rialto Bridge

As I walked I crossed what seemed to be hundreds of canals and scaled countless bridges. The journey was hard on my feet and I couldn't wait to take my soaked shoes off. I finally made it to the hostel and settled in before I headed back out to explore the city I had waited months to see. When I walked outside, the weather had drastically changed for the better and the sun shown through the sky.

The Grand Canal in Venice, Italy

Here is a list of the places I visited: Ponte Rialto, Saint Mark's Square and Basilica, Ponte Academia, Ponte Scalzi, Ponte Constituzione, Chiesa San Vidal, University Institute of Architecture, Museum of Modern art and countless churches. I have to say that the highlight of my trip to Venice was attending a tribute concert to Antonio Vivaldi. Vivaldi, as some of you may know, is a son of Venice and master composer and violinist who lived during the 17th and 18th century.  It was a great end to my 3 day tour of Venice.

I am happy with my experience and visited everything I wanted to. I'll post pictures when I get back stateside in a few days. 

-Aldo

P.S. The calzones, pizza, gelato, pasta and tiramisu I devoured were scrumptious!

Time for a Guinness

Well, after some more adventuring I made it to my destination in Ireland. I hopped onto a bus bound for Ballydehob, only to be told that the bus would be stopping halfway. I don't carry a mobile phone or a watch or anything so I had no idea how to get a hold of the family to tell the not to expect me. I figured I would just sleep in the bus station in Skibbereen until the morning.

As the bus crawled through the ice we passed more and more fields and small towns with growing distances in between. I started to get a funny feeling about my own ignorance. Sure enough, the bus station I thought I would sleep in turned out to be a sign on the side of a 5-and-dime store in "downtown Skibbereen." D'oh! I just laughed at myself as I went to the nearest pub to think out a strategy.

When I walked in it was like a recreation of an old west movie. The door slammed, everyone turned to look at me, and there was complete silence. I walked up to the bar and asked if I could use a phone or find a hotel. Convinced that the bartender was deaf, I used hand signs until he looked somewhat receptive. When he spoke back to me I busted out laughing. I couldn't understand a word he said!

Eventually I managed to get in touch with my hosts and booked a nice little room above the pub through the previously mentioned gentleman. Having nothing else to do, I came downstairs for my first beer in Ireland. I bumped into Mickey at this point. For those of you who are familiar with my escapades in England last year, you will recall that there was a man named "Mad Mike the Spike" involved. Well, it looks like I found his Irish brother. I am being completely serious when I say I did not understand a single word he uttered. I told him I was from Texas and he started to mutter something along the lines of "Jack Ruby shot Kennedy." To my shame, he and a few others bust out into a tear-jerking version of "The Yellow Rose of Texas." I don't even know the words...

The unique thing about Mickey is that he knows every word to every Elvis song ever recorded. He sang and danced the night away in between buying me pints of Murphys. By the time we split ways, I got a hug and an invitation to visit his house the next day to witness Ireland's history. In fact, the next morning I dove into a full Irish breakfast and never made it to his door.

Arthur and Lydia met me in Skib to take me to their home in Bally-d. They are the sweetes little family with 3 kids. Roisin, Ciara and Jackson (Roisin is at boarding school and I won't meet her). Jackson is a mile-a-minute 3 year-old and Ciara likes to quiz me on American facts that I don't know. Her project on America was handed in today, but not after she gave it to me for an education. Who knew that the Statue of Liberty was modeled after the Greek Goddess Libertus? Not this guy.

Along the way to the house we traded stories and family lines. My name in Gaelic is Saiore and it means "Freedom." Booyah! Gaelic is spoken by 10% of the population but all of the road signs and legal procedings are still conducted in the ancient language. If arrested, one can choose to be booked in Gaelic.

The family lives on a small farm that was once a mining community. The main house is surrounded by little "bothys" and outbuildings. Arthur manages a local estate and Lydia is trying to get her first book published. The like to host helpx people because it brings the world to them. Or first dinner was "Dublin Coddle," A stew of bacon and spuds washed down with a Guinness. Mmmm...

For now I am doing odd jobs around the house and spending time with Jackson. It is below freezing but I am holiding up OK with the hot teas and great hospitality. I will have to wait to post pictures until the end of the trip as internet access is limited. Thanks for continuing to follow along!

-Sayer

From paradise to ice...Sayer's travels into Ireland

I wrapped up my time in Greece this last week and Aldo and I split ways for the last part of our journey. With the kiwi harvest complete, there was really no work for me to do anyways. That, coupled with the fact that George's was closed for a few days, let me slip away without any feelings of unfinished business, other than the pink-eye I contracted in the last week.

This morning finds me far from the fair weather that I said goodbye to in Greece. I am sitting now in Cork, Ireland about to head west to meet my next host family. The U.K. and Ireland is experiencing the worst snowstorms it has seen in the last decade. Lucky me...

I caught a plane to Athens and then on to London on the 1st. Since the airline didn't offer a flight to Cork I used another airline, therefore causing me to have to go through customs and have an overnight stay in London. In all my travels I have never so much as been looked at when going through customs, but I guess there is a first for everything.

I approached the young lady at the inspection counter and she started to ask me the normal questions associated with crossing borders. For some reason, she enjoyed it an decided to go a little further. Something in my one-word answers must have worried her because she then asked how I could afford to travel all this time, what I did for a living, where I got the money, how much I had, what were my plans in London, why such a long stay, where is my work visa for ireland, what agency am I with, etc. She asked me where I planned to stay that night. If I were my normal self, I would have said something like "Ma'am, that's a little forward. We've only just met." But I wasn't my normal self so I told her "in the lobby." I had just woken up from a nap on the plane and my pink-eye was screaming out to her that I must be a drug trafficer or international criminal. She sat me on the bench and confiscated my passport. I was officially "detained." BOM Bom bom....

I guess I cleared out with whatever tests they did to my documents. She looked as if a small victory had been taken from her when she told me I was free to go. She did give me 48 hours to leave the country, which made me feel important.

Sleeping in the lobby was a bad idea, and it technically was impossible that night. The cold penetrated into the foundations and found its way into my bones. Hmm, I guess the towel I had between me and the tile wasn't a great insulator. I did drift off in the morning for a spell before I decided to check on my flight. Lucky me, it was cancelled. No problem, as they put me on another one that was supposed to leave earlier but in fact left much later. By the time I landed in Ireland it was too late to catch the bus to meet my hosts, so I had to find lodging for the night.

You know me, my first instinct was to sleep in the bus station. Bad idea. I trudged through the snow and ice until I stumbled upon a youth hostel. I went straight to bed.

This morning I awoke and took advantage of a shower and free breakfast. I set off for a day of adventure in Cork City. The town itself is a thriving cultural center (in fact, it is the self-proclamed cultural heart of the U.K. and Ireland). I found a discount store and stocked up on winter clothes since my carribbean clothes just weren't holding up. I bought some new boots and tried to break them in. In doing so, I broke into the hidden recesses of the city that can only be seen on foot. It is clean but unorganized, with tall designer shops on the main street and alleys full of small dealers and coffee shops. There is literally a pub every 4 or 5 shops.  The rest of the day found me exploring the English Covered Market and city life.

Now I am on my way to my temporary home on the west coast of Ireland. If I make it through the cold I will be around to write more. Stay warm, everybody.

-Sayer

Saturday Night Fever

It's just another week here on the Emerald Island. The weather is sporadic. It's sunny most of the day and turns into a monsoon at night. A great deal of trees have fallen on the property, both here and at the kiwi farm.

The cart in question

Speaking of the kiwi farm, Sayer, Jon and Attila finished the kiwi harvest! In just a little over 2 weeks they picked 337 crates, each an average of 25 kilograms (40-50 pounds, more or less). Jon said that last year's harvest took over a month with 4 people and a Kubota tractor. This year we pushed a rickety hand cart up and down the soggy hillside. Hmmm, what to do at the farm now...

Aldo has continued to work at the riding center. The instructors have been giving him riding and handling lessons during their spare time. They might even make a horse whisperer out of him.

Aldo working on long reining Isabella

On a sad note, Mrs. Steen lost the first Skyrian born under her watch this week. Silverstar passed away quickly and we believe she might have been poisoned. It took 6 of us to load her into the back of the van for burial. Aldo stayed up and helped tend to the ailing animal but she did not make it through the night. It is fortunate, however, that she passed during the night and not during a lesson or while the children were at the stables.

On Saturday night we had a big party down at Captain's to celebrate Mrs. Steen's newest accomplishment. For over 4 years she has tried to get approval to build a new, covered arena and riding center near the kiwi farm. After much fighting and campaigning, she was finally given permission! Construction should start within the next few days and contingent on the weather.

All of the instructors, employees and long-time riders that helped make this possible were in attendance. Even the mayor of Corfu joined the 40+ people. Early in the evening, Captain George pulled Sayer back into the kitchen to prepare the plates for our guests. After the meal, Mrs. Steen said a few words of thanks and sang "My Bonnie Lies Over the Ocean" in remembrance of Silverstar. After that, the party was in full swing with yet another round of karaoke. We will leave out the details, but the singing continued into the early morning hours and we closed down the house after the rest of the party left. Yet another great night in Corfu!

On Monday morning came clear and sunny skies. Jon loaded us up to go to the south of the island. The good weather was short lived, however, and the rest of the day was spent in the wind and rain. We passed through a few ghost towns including Kavos (due to the winter low-season) and knocked a few more geocaching spots off of our list.

Boom

Ruins of a monastery (we didn't find the cache)

Corfu Town from the observatory

This week we have some guests in the house and on the property. A news station from Athens is here to film a documentary on Mrs. Steen and her mission. They will interview a few of the instructors as well. Other than that, we are looking at another week of work and fellowship here at the Silva Project. Thanksgiving is coming up and perhaps we'll make some comfort food so as to not completely miss out on the tradition.

The days go by...

Whew, time flies here when you are picking up horse poop....

Last Monday we used our day off to go with Jon on a trek of the island. He drove us up to the northern climes and part of the way up Mount Pantokrator, the tallest peak here. We were privy to a lovely view of the island, the Greek mainland and Albania.

Along the route we stopped at a few locations to engage in some geocaching. Geocaching is a global online treasure hunt that utilizes GPS coordinates to hide-and-seek logs and collections of trinkets. There are a few on Corfu and we found most that we were looking for. Each cache is completely different and unique because of the people who find it and leave their mark. geocaching.com for more info...

After our first stop we headed to Old Pirithia, Corfu's oldest village. There are remains of centuries-old houses alongside a new tavern. The place would be picturesque if it were not for the electrical lines running every which way. It was cold, wet and foggy, so the ambiance in the town was nothing less than eerie. Like in one of those horror movies, we thought a troglodyte would come out with a chainsaw and feed us to his young. We stopped at the small islet of Agios Spiridon to find a cache in the old Byzantine monastery and one on the beach before calling it quits.

Old Pirithia

Jon and Aldo investigating the contents of the cache

The week was spent either at the horse center or kiwi farm. Nothing new to report there, other than we are at 250+ crates picked in just over a week. We had a mini-horse photo shoot for the new calendar on Sunday afternoon. Mrs. Steen wasn't too accepting of the idea for a "Men of Silva" calendar...

Poppy, one of the new foals

Kiwis...

This Monday we split ways and enjoyed an awesome day of sunshine. Sayer went with Attila to the apex of Mount Pantokrator by way of the motor bike. There is a nice monastery on the grounds, but it is ruined by the presence of a huge radio tower. Afterwards the pair continued once more to Old Pirithia and made a long, cold journey back to a warm meal.

Mount Pantokrator in the background

Monastery with its blemish

The moment has arrived!

The last two weeks have been fun but busy here on the farm. Jon left for a holiday so Aldo and I pulled double duty at the riding center and the kiwi farm (we just had to walk the dogs everyday). Both of us are becoming skilled horsemen and we have slipped quite nicely into a routine.

Sayer with a Skyrian

Attila constructing an oven made of clay and horse poop

Last Thursday, we had the day off for "Ochi day," one of Greece's national holidays (Ochi is the Greek way of saying no). During World War 2, Benito Mussolini demanded that Axis forces be allowed to enter Greece and fortify positions to aid them in the war. Greeks took to the streets and yelled "ochi" as a protest to the request. The Italians invaded anyways, but the day is commemorated all the same.

We headed down to Corfu Town to watch the festivities. For some reason, we were under the impression that there would be a huge parade and plenty of shenanigans to hold our attention. In reality, the entire celebration consisted of different groups of school children marching by in matching uniforms. After they passed, everyone left. With nothing else to see, we retreated to George's for lunch.

Our only other note-worthy adventure last week was Halloween! Jon got back on Saturday night and we each set aside clothes and ideas to be used. We talked George into letting us come to his restaurant for dinner and karaoke (oh, no....) and on Sunday night we stormed in and took over the place.

Some of the costumes: Aldo as a Scotsman, Sayer as Wolverine from X-men, Attila as Rambo, Jon as a Judo master, Sharon as a cat, Ann as Morticia, and Sophie as something. Captain George had on a fake nose, but the winner of the night was Mrs. Steen. She came down a few minutes after us and walked in with a mask and several shawls. No one could guess who would come dressed as a hag, and when she ripped off the mask we all laughed a great deal. What a great sense of humor!

The night was full of horrible renditions of the classics, great food, plenty of wine, and a good deal of fellowship. Our playlist included "Barbi Girl," "YMCA," and other hits by O-town, Boys 2 Men, Garth Brooks, and Joe Cocker. It was one of the best halloweens either of us could remember (now we want to forget it...).

Us with Captain George

Us with Attila and Jon after a hard night's rockin'

Monday we headed across the island to Pelekas beach and Kaiser's throne. From the vantage point we could see both sides of the island. We taught the guys how to play beteyah and spent an hour or so on the beach before coming back for dinner.

Kaiser's throne with Corfu Town in the background (We decided to shave and get haircuts!)

Life has resumed as normal this week, with the exception of one thing. (Drumroll). We started the kiwi harvest! The last two days have been spent picking the largest fruits from the tree and storing them in the shed. Our tractor broke so we are pulling carts by ourselves, but we are still making good time and bringing in a good haul.

The kiwi farm

The fruits of our labors

The picking should last about 4 weeks due to the inconsistency on each tree. We can't just go and grab every kiwi because some of them still need to mature. We make an initial pass for the big ones, then in a week or two we will double back and collect the rest. As it stands at the moment, none of the kiwi are ripe. We pick them when they are quite firm and they ripen after being separated from the tree (this makes it hard to snack during work).

On to Greece!

Well the journey to Greece was a long one that started with an early bus from Cadalso de los Vidrios to Madrid. That was followed up by a Metro train ride to Barajas Airport terminal 1 and a 3 hour and 45 minute plane ride to Athens, Greece. Our layover was short in comparison to that of Ft. Lauderdale to Santo Domingo earlier in this trip but, we soon we on a small jet en route to Corfo (Kerkyra). It was a one-hour flight and before we knew it we were in Corfu and looking around for our newest host.

Unbeknown to us, Aldo had been sitting next to Mrs. Sylvia Steen all along. She had been visiting her mother in Athens and was on the way back home to meet the "new American boys." She called out to us by the baggage claim and said she identified us by either a "lost look" or our "large backpacks." After exchanging a few formalities we headed to her villa and our new "home" for the next six weeks.

1400 year-old Ficus tree

It was a short drive to the villa and we soon parked it in the driveway of a 200+ year-old house. Along the way, Mrs. Steen pointed out to us a 900 year-old Eucalyptus tree and a 1400 year-old Ficus tree that also call her villa home. It's one of the 3 oldest Ficus trees in the world. Unfortunately, the weather was nasty and certain astonishment had to wait until the morning.

Dinner was served and waiting for us along with 6 foreign faces that we of the other volunteers on the Silva Project. Our coordinator, Jon, is from Manchester, England and he gave us a tour of the house and grounds. Other volunteers are Ann from Canada, Sophie from France, Mark from Texas, and Attila from Hungary. We settled in and adjusted to the new sounds and comforts of our home. (The sounds were interesting, considering there are 15+ dogs on the farm as well as 20+ miniature horses and countless chickens and geese...)

Our Villa

Saturday we had the day off to settle in and explore Corfu Town with Jon. Corfu is the name of the island and also the name of the capitol city. The city has English, Italian and Venetian influence that is evident in the layout of the small streets and tall buildings. Corfu is the northernmost Greek island on the west coast, just across from Albania. Our villa is situated on a small peninsula just by the airport. From our porch we can see across to the Greek mainland. Some stunning views await those who walk just a few yards from the house.

One view from the property (Greece is in the distance)

Another view across the sea. Legend claims that the small island is the boat of Odysseus, who washed up onto Corfu's shore in Homer's Odyssey

  

The private beach we share with the resort

Saturday evening Mrs. Steen treated us to a traditional Greek dinner in a small town outside of Corfu. We sat apart from the locals and clearly stuck out as foreigners. The waiter brought out plates of sausage, meatballs, salad, bread, yogurt sauce, potatoes, cheese, and bottles of local wine. We stuffed ourselves full before learning that this was only the first course of the meal. It took a lot of strength to force down the second course of pasta, lamb, and veal. Dessert was traditional Greek yogurt with honey or candied fruits. We mingled for a bit and enjoyed the live performance of musicians and dancers.

Sunset from the front porch

On Sunday we took a short drive out to the kiwi farm to get oriented with our new profession. There are 12 rows of trees brimming with kiwis that will be ready to pick by next week. We took yet another set of dogs for a walk before calling it a day and stopping at a pub on the way home.

That night we went out for drinks and karaoke, and we quickly cleared the place out. The selection was pretty slim but we had a good time anyways. 3 a.m. rolled around and the restaurant owner's eyes were pleading with us to leave. Aldo paid tribute to Frank Sinatra with his version of "My Way." Songs were coming on randomly, and Sayer stunned the crowd when he belted out Andrea Bocelli's "Time To Say Goodbye" in Italian, word for word. Oh, what a night!

Monday is the volunteer's day off and we spent it around the villa and at our new favorite hangout, Captain George's. George is a local that opened a bar and restaurant next to our farm so we stop in for good drinks and food everyday. He welcomed us as "The Texas Mafia" and always takes time to sit and visit. He can't pronounce the name "Sayer," so Sayer is now known as "Spyros."

Aldus Maximus

  

A gyro, one of Greece's better-known culinary delights

  

Mini-horses

The rest of our week was spent working on the equestrian center and kiwi farm. We were separated in order to learn each job and it was nice to be apart for a few hours each day (our longest break from each other since before leaving for this trip). At the kiwi farm, we each walked the dogs, cleaned and organized the crates to prepare for the harvest. Back at the equestrian center we were put to work shoveling horse poop into sacks (mucking) and grooming and feeding the horses before each lesson.

There are several trainers that instruct youngsters to ride horses. Our job is to groom and saddle the horses and lead them around the arena during lessons. The work is simple and fun and we meet plenty of new people each day. Also included in our work week is one free riding lesson apiece. Horse riding is something we naturally should have learned in Texas, but we will take life as it comes!

Irakles (Hercules), the horse that Sayer rode. Sharon, pictured, is an instructor and the horse's owner

Evenings are spent reading or visiting with the other volunteers over delicious homemade dinners. There is a 5-star hotel directly next door that offers casino raffles 3 nights a week, so we head over and cross our fingers for the 500 Euro prize. We have yet to win, but there is still a good month left to try our luck.

Today was another day off but rain dominated any plans we would have made. Instinctively, we just went down to George's for lunch and an afternoon of conversation. This place is very unique and very welcoming. We are excited to be here and even more excited to keep everyone involved with our progress!